I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.

Through my illness I learned rejection. I was written off. That was the moment I thought, Okay, game on. No prisoners. Everybody's going down.

It's funny, because I have periods where I just kind of go dark. I don't tweet, I don't talk, I don't interview, and then I have times where I do.

My mom was such a strong character. I don't want to say she was like a man, but she was tough.

I figure the faster I pedal, the faster I can retire.